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Blank Adapting the M1917A1 Watercooled Machine Gun
Date Written: November 2011
Author: Chris Guska
Blank Adapting the M1917A1 Watercooled Machine Gun
1.) Selecting blanks
2.) Feedway modifications
3.) BFA Construction (You are here)
4.) Gland Packing
5.) Belts vs Links
6.) Feed parts
7.) Troubleshooting
3.) BFA ConstructionTheres one basic way of reliably blank adapting the 1917A1 - utilizing a "booster" cap that replaces the front muzzle gland.
The USGI 1917A1 blank adapters are still available at very reasonable prices (typically around $20-30). These BFA's are just a cap that screws over the end of the barrel with a fixed muzzle apeture and pressure relief vents on the sides.
I highly reccomend drilling the muzzle apeture hole and threading it for 3/8 set screws. Take care to only cut the thread deep enough, and not totally through, creating a shoulder so you can tighen the set screw down into the BFA. There is plenty of metal there in the front of the GI BFA's to do this modification.
I like using stainless steel set screws, as they do not require annealing as the hardened carbon steel plugs do.
I typically make set screws for 1917's from .115 through 0.195, increasing by ~ 0.010 per screw. The aperture size used can vary wildly depending on the blanks used as well as the gun itself. My browning 30's typically run @ around 0.130 - 0.145 with the POF blanks.
If you want to take things to the next level, you can make up a tube and bushing to weld onto the GI BFA to make it look like a M1923 flash hider.
This is the setup I use as a BFA for my 1917A1.
